The Language of Love in Gems and Jewels,

(excerpts from Antiquorum Auctioneers, 11/16/97 thematic auction catalogue)

Of course, it is not just the ring that is the perfect courier for love, romance, devotion and commitment. The necklace, pendant, brooch, bracelet and earrings, in gold or platinum, unadorned or gem encrusted, were (and still are) used as mesengers of love. Jewelry artisans throughout the centuries have fashioned a variety of representations of the aspects of love. Of course their design and inspiration have varied. During the past few hundred years, several periods of style emerged, which have been categorized as: Georgian (c. 1714-1837), Victorian (c. 1837-1901), Art Nouveau (c. 1880-1914), Edwardian (c. 1901-1910), Art Deco (c. 1915-1935), and Retro (1935-1950).

Jewelry design has always been influenced by the cultural and economic development of the country of its origin, the availability of materials and the individual talents of craftsmen at the time. Customs, geography, religion, laws, war and peace, technical advancements, and most importantly fashion, have determined who has worn what type of jewelry over the years. Royalty from Cleopatra to Queen Victoria, socialites such as Barbara Hutton and celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor have aspired to adorn themselves in the finest jewels, which have historically set trends on all levels of society. Makers, too, especially important houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany, primarily during the 19th and 20th centuries, have had a significant influence as to what is in vogue.

In terms of style and symbolism, much of the jewelry and accessories of the 17th and 18th centuries took on classical, mythological and biblical symbolisms to represent love. Tales of classic Greek and Roman mythology have served as inspiration for artists and goldsmiths from antiquity to the present day. Cupid and Psyche, as well as Venus and other dieties, became popular figures carved, engraved, or painted in enamel for earrings, brooches, pendants and objects of vertu.

The heart is undoubtedly the most popular expression of love and romance in jewelry. It is often depicted "aflame" with diamonds and rubies, sometimes plain, and sometimes pierced with Cupid's arrow. Jewelry items were also crafted into other shapes. The love knot represented strength in a relationship. Sea vessels were symbolic of the triumph over the storms of love. A ladder represented the aspirations of love. Fire was often used to indicate passion. The phoenix, a mythical bird which regenerated ashes, symbolized love revived. Salamanders are associated with passionate love. Moths hovering around a flame signify the danger of love. The dog was an allegory for faithfullness; the fly a symbol of humility, and a caged owl was emblematic of love's dominion over wisdom. A lion struck with an arrow illustrated love conquering the wild; while an arrow piercing a stag indicated unrequited love.

The Victorian era is best known for producing a wide array of love jewelry which was inspired by the marraige of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Throughout their marriage, Albert showered Victoria with many jewels, all of which she adored, and most of which were copied by others. For her engagement ring, Victoria chose the design of a snake swallowing its tail, an ancient symbol of eternal love.