Gem Features




Make A Fashion Statement with Gem-set Jewels

By Deborah A. Yonick




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© August Mayer, Idar Oberstein

— When the leaves change colors and drop from the trees, fashionistas everywhere relish in the start of their richest season. Getting dressed in the fall is just more fun with all the luxurious fabrics to choose from and the many ways you can layer them. You probably already own more of the season’s hot items than you think, as virtually every decade of the 20th century is in fashion. So, to update your look, mix more than match, and accessorize.

This fall the name of the game is adornment and accessories’ piece de résistance, is fine jewelry. Vibrant, eye-popping jewels can transform your look and make even the most modest outfit spectacular!

Jeweler James Taffin de Givenchy best captures the movement among women to wear more jewelry when he told Vogue: “It’s a reaction to globalization, a response to everything looking the same. You can really make a look your own with the jewelry that you wear.” And, there is no better expression of your own personality than gem-set jewelry.

The momentum for small delicate things is dead, say designers. “People now have the courage to wear designs that are bigger, bolder, and more colorful in scope,” describes Karla Antones of Vianna in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. This fall, gems in cool tones such as purple, green and blue are in vogue. Greens in particular are coming on strong, she says: "We’re doing a lot in beryl, tourmaline, quartz, and peridot." In purples, look for amethyst, sapphire, and tourmaline to take center stage. For blues, sapphire, tourmaline, and aquamarine are favorites.

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© Vianna, Belo Horizonte, Brazil

With yellow gold styles back in fashion this season, there are more warm-toned gems in the limelight such as citrine, spessartite garnet, Mexican fire opal, and orange sapphire, reports Cheryl Kronenberger for Leopard Watches & Fine Jewelry by Al Zain, Medford, New Jersey. “We’ve created some great woven gold bracelets and pendants with yellow sapphire, cognac and white diamonds interspersed that are very popular among our collectors.”

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© Constantin Wild,
Idar-Oberstein
Designers are featuring many combinations of these colors, including multiple gems or the same gem in different shades mixed in mosaic patterns. Constantin Wild of W. Constantin Wild & Co., Idar-Oberstein, Germany says gems are trendy in any vibrant color. “What’s nice and unusual is in — whether pastel or jewel tone. Nowadays, it’s more about what you like than following one major trend.”


In this anything-goes environment however, there are four key gem-set jewelry design directions worth noting — but what styles and colors you choose are totally up to you:

1. The Brooch is the “it” jewel — vintage-like and gem encrusted in nature inspired motifs like flowers and wildlife. “Subjects like butterflies, dragonflies and fish offer endless design and color options,” describes Myriam Naftule Whitney for the Scottsdale, Arizona-based Nafco Gems regarding its “Nature Beauty” collection.

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© Nafco Gems, AZ, USA

Beyond a lapel ornament, brooches are being worn in more avant-garde ways at the waist or base of a neckline; to wrap a cardigan; on hats,shoes and

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© Nafco Gems,
AZ, USA
bags; even in your hair. And not just one, but groups of two, three or more! Says Helena Krodel for the Jewelry Information Center in New York City: “One large brooch with a conglomeration of gems in a geometric shape does well on a tweed jacket. Or, try two matching gem pavé brooches on the straps of an evening dress. This season is all about dressing up dames.”

2. Gem Bead Necklaces, often mixed with chain and/or pearls, make a bold

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© Wild & Petsch,
Idar-Oberstein
statement in long lariats or multiple strands of various lengths that layer color. Design options are endless with the array of gems available, and the range of prices offer something for everyone. “People thought it would be a quick fashion fling, but gem beads have gone mainstream with no end in sight,” reports Alexander Wild for the Idar-Oberstein gem house Wild & Petsch. “What’s really moving best are unusual, festive combinations, that are not necessarily expensive.”

Peter Rohm
© Peter Rohm, Rohm KG, Linz, Austria

Although Peter Rohm of Rohm KG, Linz, Austria, notes that fine necklaces in coral, aquamarine and tourmaline also are important, and turquoise is back in a big way.

According to Roberto Sutter, president of the gem bead house Horizonte of Büren, Switzerland, designers are more open to unusual materials such as large, chunky nugget-style gems or high quality shell and lava beads.



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© Horizonte, Büren, Switzerland, with Roberto Sutter (center)

3. Gem Clusters in Linear Earrings of different lengths bring a splash of color to the face by dangling yummy briolettes or beads interspersed with chains or precious metal details. Styles, which often mix gems and colors, are varied — from frilly and feminine to bohemian and ethnic. But don’t bury those chandelier earrings in your jewelry box just yet. Any earring dangling gems is in! “Women love the way dangle earrings make them feel feminine and festive,” explains Krodel. “Some winners to watch for include long and lovely rows of gems or pearls suspended on a thin chain thread, whimsical and mobile gem or pearl tassel earrings, and pendulum earrings with slim bodies and round gems or pearl as finales.”

4. A Big Bold Gemmy Ring, Pendant or Cuff Bracelet can add magic to a low-key outfit. The trend for over-the-top jewels recalls old Hollywood glamour, but is translated in colorful, fun gem-set designs ideal before, as much as after, 5 p.m. — with one large center stone, often surrounded by micro pavé, or mosaics of smaller gems popular.

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© Tamir Pinchasi for Harpaz Gem Inc, NYC

“Women who are fashionable, flamboyant, and open minded can wear big gem jewelry,” describes New York City designer Tamir Pinchasi for Harpaz Gems. “I design rings and pendants to be dreamlike, fantastic and attention grabbing, with lots of interesting details in unique settings that highlight the gem.” In addition to big faceted gems, carvings in symbolic shapes like the heart, cross and star are trendy as a jewelry centerpiece.

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© Vianna, Belo Horizonte, Brazil

With the broad range of gemstones available in type and color, you can find elements of style within your budget. And when dressing, accessorize outside the box says Krodel. “Jewelry is layered on with certain nonchalance that looks less contrived. Multi strand pearl bracelets are worn with sport watches; timepieces with colored gemstones are worn with chain or charm bracelets; and organic materials, like crocodile and leather bracelets are set with fancy gems. Interesting combinations evoke creativity, individuality and a je ne sais quoi” — the true exclamation point to any fashion statement!





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Deborah Yonick is a veteran jewelry journalist who writes regularly for many trade magazines worldwide.
She also pens a consumer column known as The Jewelry Lady, which can be accessed at
http//:www.thejewelrylady.info or http://www.jcoc.net.

© Created by ICA Gem Bureau Idar-Oberstein