Robb Report - Big Blue



gem of the month







Memories of Burma
ICA travelers to Myanmar share photos and opinions

The International Colored Gemstone Association took a gem tour to Myanmar (formerly Burma) in February and early March.
Richard Hughes led the tour, composed of 15 people from Canada, Belarus, Germany, France, Greece and the United States.
In light of the debate that swirls around the subject (see previous story), Professional Jeweler’s Robert Weldon, who also made the trip, offered participants a chance to convey their thoughts about the tour in words and pictures. The thought-provoking mix of opinions and photos follows in alphabetical order:
Poster
Barilo.Richard Hughes, ICA gem tour leader,
chats with a young Burmese girl near
Taungthaman Lake.

Sergei Barilo
Head of the Laboratory for Superconducting Materials Physics Institute of Solid State & Semiconductor Physics Byelorussian Academy of Sciences, Belarus

Much was recognized when I came to this fascinating land: the world’s storeroom of minerals and people’s smiles. Perhaps none from our team of ICA travelers could imagine it better than I or sympathize as much as I do with the Burmese. Bearing in mind the country of my birth’s 75 years under the former USSR, I have heard and still listen to the shrill sound of the Burmese people’s eloquent silence. I understand their blind submission to the so-called “Council of Peace and Development.” I do not trust in any of the 12 political, economic and social objectives currently claimed by the government newspaper, New Light of Myanmar.
Poster
Beard. Gilded Buddha.
As a Belarus citizen, I know today that “a peaceful, modern and discipline-flourishing democracy,” which Myanmar’s junta claims it will develop, has no possibility. I do trust in the hidden, but genuine light in the eyes and hearts of the Burmese people and in the forces of democracy, which a truly free market would unleash.



Morgan Beard
Editor in Chief, Colored Stone magazine
Devon, PA

Burma is a country of temples. Even in the poorest villages, you’ll see a dazzling white-and-gold pagoda somewhere nearby; in the larger cities, there’ll be temples with saffron-robed Buddhist monks. As visitors, we come and marvel at the wonders of the ancient Burmese. But for the country’s modern inhabitants, these places are still part of the fabric of everyday life. It’s a testament to the true wealth of Burma – the strength and the quiet faith of its people.



Alexandre Hahn
Goldsmith and Gemologist,
Gerhard Hahn Pearl AG
Duesseldorf, Germany

I get goose bumps of joy thinking of moments I spent in Burma. Imagine walking toward a village and a bunch of kids follow you and then break out in laughter when you show them their own picture [on a digital camera screen].
Poster
Hahn.Boys share a laugh.
Imagine sitting in a Pagoda and feeling the peace around you. Burmese talk to you and are genuinely interested in what you say! It was amazing to feel their vibe. The people have so little but give so much kindness and warmth. The whole trip to Burma was a special moment with tears and pure joy, which I will never forget.



Richard W. Hughes
American Gem Trade Association
Gemological Testing Center
Carlsbad, CA

Burma is a land of contradictions. Wherever one travels, large posters titled “People’s Desire” are on public display. And yet according to Buddhist teachings, it is desire that is at the heart of human pain.
Poster
Hughes.People’s Desire.
Contradictions also abound in the militant attitudes of many outsiders toward Burma. Many desire that we should not visit Burma because its citizens are saddled with a poor government. I believe America is currently saddled with a poor government. The last thing I would want is isolation because of it.



Robert Kane
President, Fine Gems International
Helena, MT

Initially, it is the legendary gemstones that draw gemologists and jewelers to Burma. The mystique and allure of Mogok – the Valley of the Rubies and Sapphires – and the incomparable jade mines in the north captivate most of us.
Poster
Kane.Burmese girl wears thanaka made
from powdered tree bark. Effective
as a sunscreen, it’s also worn
as a fashion statement.
This was the case for me on my first trip to Mogok in 1991. After three subsequent trips to Mogok and more than a dozen visits to other parts of Burma, the fabled gemstones remain a strong attraction. However, it is the rich history, the Buddhist and Burmese traditions, and the warm-hearted optimistic, intelligent and gentle nature of the people that make Burma a truly enchanting country to visit.




Richard Krementz
Richard Krementz Gemstones
Newark, NJ

The jade market in Mandalay is far from the beaten path in U.S.-embargoed Myanmar. Imperial jade, arguably the most expensive gem, is mined nearby and traded in this ancient capital. The ramshackle, narrow alley market has more than a thousand people cutting, grinding, sawing and polishing the most treasured gem of China. Jade bangles and cabochons are formed on primitive equipment, mostly human-powered.
Poster
Krementz.Sunset at U Bein’s Bridge
near Taungthaman Lake.
Dozens of traders are trading stone papers with intense green, translucent cabochons of ... dyed quartzite! A boy shows me a native-cut ruby – it’s synthetic. Mixed with sapphire is treated blue topaz. And this is at “the source,” where natural gems are so plentiful anybody can buy them. All I can think of are the countless tourists and amateur “gemologists” who think they are getting a deal when they buy overseas. They sure are.




Poster
Lucas.Burmese jade traders at a
Mandalay jade market
Andrew Lucas
Product Manager/Gemology,
Gemological Institute of America
Carlsbad CA

Markets at exotic sources are always a great attraction. The feeling that comes from watching local dealers make transactions among themselves at makeshift trading tables outdoors is exciting and a great place for photography. At numerous small cutting and polishing facilities, one can witness the entire jade-fashioning process and see dealers selling jade boulders and slabs. With the U.S. embargo in effect, temptation to buy is completely removed, so we move through the stalls as observers. Would-be buyers should be warned, however: dyed green and lavender jadeite, flame-fusion synthetic ruby, and sapphire and synthetic ruby doublets are all available for the unsuspecting.


Poster
Malcolm.A Burmese family visits the
Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar.

Barbara Malcolm
Visual Anthropologist
Newark, NJ

We moved as a group of 15, arriving in small villages by large boat or bus. We navigated narrow alleyways of outdoor markets looking for treasures. We climbed mountains and steep staircases that led to vast temple complexes where people were privately and publicly engaged in spiritual practice. Sometimes we were experienced as disruptive intruders, sometimes as honored guests. Our cameras were high-tech appendages that facilitated non-verbal communication. Where we pointed our lens was an indication of our interest. When we replayed the digital picture for the person in the photo, we shared our experience of what was similar and different between us.



Poster
Gregory Sherman poses with monk
apprentices at a pagoda in Mandalay.

Gregory Edward Sherman
Appraiser
Red Bank, NJ

I am forever changed by my experience in Burma. It was a powerful reminder that the gemstone industry is multidimensional and endlessly fascinating. Gems are inexorably entwined with culture, politics, history, religion, economics and folklore – and with the people of all nations. We can no more isolate gems from this milieu than we can isolate the stars from the universe. I came seeking knowledge of gems, but the Burmese people, particularly the children, stirred me beyond all measure. The Burmese are guileless and have a gentle spirit. This is a land where golden sunsets, golden temples and golden smiles call to me from halfway around the world in my dreams, bidding me to return, which I shall surely do.


Poster
Roark.Boat hands take a break while
floating down the Ayeyarwaddy River.

Tim Roark
President, Tim Roark Imports
Atlanta, GA

We chug quietly down the Ayeyarwaddy River. What a contrast to Bangkok and Yangon! The weather is perfect. The cloudless sky is toned a light sepia by the farm burnoff beyond the sand banks of our dry-season river. Swifts glide and dip along the water’s surface, catching insects. We dreamily float through this beautiful land populated by gentle people.


Poster
Weldon.Burma’s future lies in the hands
of the young – like this apprentice monk.

Robert Weldon
Senior Writer/Director of Photography, Professional Jeweler
Philadelphia, PA

We must remember the Burmese gems we cherish are unique products of a geographically stunning country and its graceful people. We visited no gem mine on this trip, but ICA members instead studied something of equally great importance: Burma’s people. That the Myanmar government denied access to an international group flies in the face of the junta’s oft-stated desire to open the country to the world. But this group of gemologists came away with something far more precious than memories of a historical mine. We will never forget the sweet nature and unvarnished beauty of the people we met during our meanderings through Burma’s magnificent landscape.

END.








© copyright of Article and Images by Robert Weldon, Except where noted.
Titel Photos captions: 1. Burmese ruby 7.18-ct. gem from Mogok, 2. Wisps of fog and smoke lie low in the early morning at the archaeological wonder of Bagan, where temples date to the 9th century.



© Created by ICA Gem Bureau Idar-Oberstein